TRAVEL: It's snow great in St Anton

FRANCE has the convenience of purpose built resorts at high altitude, Switzerland has its chocolate box chalets and Italy has its laid back style and hunky ski instructors but if you want the best of all worlds then you will go a long way before bettering St Anton in Austria.

Austria has been a firm favourite of mine since I learnt to ski in Kitzbuhel in the early 1980s but its altitude means that snow conditions can be problematic.

St Anton at 1,304 metres and slopes rising to 2,650 metres has no such problems.

I visited the resort in early April and the skiing was still fantastic. We arrived to rain at Zurich but by the time we started to climb towards the resort it had turned to snow and St Anton was covered in enough of the beautiful, light fluffy flakes to gladden any skier's heart.

St Anton really does have it all. Mile after mile of groomed slopes, enough off-piste to keep even the most advanced skier happy and mountain restaurants to die for.

It also has the sort of apres ski that even those who claim to be real party animals will struggle to keep up with.

Here the music and the dancing starts as soon as the slopes begin to empty. The bars next to the piste are full of those determined to rehydrate as quickly as they can on beer, jaegertea and gluhwein and this combined with the music is enough to get the more extrovert dancing on the tables.

By six most people are on their way back to their hotels or apartments for a bit of snooze to work up enough energy to hit the bars and clubs until the early hours.

Incredibly many are ready with their boots on and skis on their shoulders in time to make the first lifts at 8.30am. St Anton really does believe in burning the candle at both ends and plenty rise to the challenge.

But for me the real beauty of St Anton is the skiing.

The lift system is efficient and there are several ways to get out of the resort so bottlenecks are kept to a minimum.

A huge benefit is the way a number of slopes of different degrees of difficulty all lead to the same place, enabling mixed ability groups to ski together and for everyone to feel in control. The mountain restaurants in the area are also exceptional. It is easy to ski to Zug or Zurs - once favourite destinations of Princess Diana - and enjoy a gourmet meal.

St Anton boasts Europe's highest altitude Michelin starred restaurant.

But down in the villages there are a number of other fine eateries just a few minutes walk away - and even in ski boots it is definitely worth the effort.

Austria isn't the cheapest place in the world to ski but the lift pass which also covers Stuben, Lech, Zurs and St Christoph gives value for money if you make the most of the day.

When the powder is on the ground the best way to get the most from it is to get a guide. We went out with one on our first day in the resort and covered more ground in a few hours that I, and my body, would have believed possible.

By the time we stopped for lunch five hours later I ached in every joint but the buzz had been amazing.

For the most experienced skiers the best runs off the Valluga are only accessible with a guide. You won't be allowed on the lift with ski equipment without one.

Other notable routes include the back and front sides of the Rendl. A good starting point are the ski routes from the back lifts of the Valluga cable and Shindlergrat chair which are unpisted, steep and patrolled. Zurs, Stuben and Lech have plentiful routes also.

If it is moguls you are after then go up the Valluga and take Schindlergrat chair, turn right onto ski route 15, then follow it down. As you round the mountain via the path, a magnificent field of monster moguls drops away to your left. You can spot them from the Galzig on your way over.

But when the snow is new there is powder everywhere. The resort believes in leaving them ungroomed for a little while after snowfall which can make them challenging for less accomplished skiers.

If you do decide to stop for a rest and a drink you can always do a bit of celebrity spotting. Those allegedly spotted in the past few seasons include Alan Hansen, Kenny Dalgleish, Jonny Ball, Vernon Kay from TV show T4, Gary Lucy, DJ Otzi, Right Said Fred and Louis Theroux. And there were even reports of Robbie Williams in Lech.

When it comes to accommodation chalets are hard to beat.

They combine the relaxtion of an apartment with the luxury of a hotel and the food is usually great.

There is also the advantage of full English breakfast and even home made cakes to lure you away from the bar at the end of hectic day's skiing.

St Anton has chalets of all sizes and some of the best are with Simply Ski.

Travel info Joanne Moore travelled to St Anton with Simply Ski and stayed at Chalet Pia.

A fully qualified private nanny service is available in all resorts if the whole chalet is booked.

The company has 26 chalets in Europe's premier resorts - St. Anton, Zermatt, Verbier, Meribel, Val d'Isere, and Courchevel 1300 and 1850.

There will be four new chalets for 05/06 - including the Chalet Arlberg in St. Anton (12 beds) Flights for St. Anton use Innsbruck airport.

Simply Ski: Kings Place, Wood Street, Kingston-upon-Thames. Tel: 020 8939 0843 Fax: 020 8939 5030 St Anton fact file ...

Resort Altitude: 1304 m Total piste: 250 km Lifts: 81 Snow cannons: 38 Child friendly: No Highest lift: 2650 m Longest piste: 10.2 km Lift pass photo: No Restaurants: 10 Slopes: Easy: 34 Intermediate: 70 Difficult: 30 Approx cost: 6-day lift pass: £130 Ski hire: £85 Ski school: £130 Instructors: 280 Instruction hours: 0930-1200 1300-1500 4.5 hours per day Apre ski The Krazy Kangaruh - apres wild and multinational. Worker's Thursday hangout. On red 23 from the Gampen. Can traverse across from Blue 1 as long as you see the sign.

The Mooserwirt - fun starts at three in the afternoon and earlier. Ends when it feels like it. More beer sold here than anywhere else in Austria by all accounts. Hang out in the igloo tent outside for a bit more space, and to look out for the piste bashers grooming your ski home in the dark. Follow the noise from either home run.

The Sennhutte - Schnapps, beer, dancing on tables, Austrian music from accordians and DJs typical Austrian apres then. Just off Blue 1 before you head towards the Mooserwirt a bit lower down.

Taps - Next to the KK, slightly quieter, still have to ski home from it. Hold the annual Antoner's races in April Bars in the resort Scotty's - Starting point in the village for all the UK seasonworker's evening antics. Mark Warner runs the place, with great pizza in the adjoining Rosanna Pizzeria. Great staff prices. Heinous drinks of all colours! Home of the Turbo Rum Death and a bi weekly fancy dress.

The Funky Chicken - Skandi-ville. Home of beautiful swedes, and the resort's southern hemisphere population. Also birth place of the very alcoholic Frozen Margharita! Endless ski vids and grilled chicken dishes. Movies on Weds afternoon.

Bar Cuba - Later opening bar and disco. More heinous exclusive drinks including the aquamarine wonder Cuban Cocaine. Fasching and Silvester antics in fancy dress. Amazing self service beer dispenser. Full football program.

The Underground / Black Hole - Two music based venues, one building, two very different atmospheres. Upstairs piano bar. Very full always. Downstairs dark and atmospheric. Great long island ice teas.