IT was pouring with rain as we pulled up in a little red KA in front of the imposing Manor House Hotel, a most beautiful country hotel.

I was nervous about parking such a small car on the vast drive but a gentleman in pristine frock coat magically appeared at the passenger door, complete with huge umbrella and welcoming smile.

We were ushered into the most splendid reception and my dear little KA was discreetly removed and parked for us, nestling nicely, as I later discovered, between two giant 4x4s.

A young Frenchman led us to The Yellow Drawing Room where we relaxed into huge comfortable settees where we enjoyed olives and nuts.

The wine list was extensive, expensive and excellent but we didn't need to peruse it for long, having already made up our minds to celebrate our anniversary with a bottle of champagne. In no time at all we were sipping our superbly chilled Ruinart Brut (£45 a bottle) and delighting in choosing our food.

Having allowed us a civilised time to make choices, the young Frenchman returned to collect our order and guide us to the dining room which was tastefully decorated with large chandeliers, crisp white table linen, candles, crystal glass and silver cutlery and cut fresh orchids on each table.

Our champagne was delivered in an icy cold bucket and sparkling water was poured. At no time at all did I notice an empty glass and yet we were never aware of having our privacy disturbed.

A very young waiter (or is it my age showing) presented us with a choice of of beautiful home baked and sliced speciality breads and pea green soup served in a tiny delicate dish with fronds of curling pea tendrils. It tasted delicious. Then the treat really began to unfold as a procession of artistic, magnificent and tantalising food was set before us.

I had creamed Cerney goats cheese with dandelion and roquette salad, shallots and roasted caraway chutney, poached grapes and walnut oil.

Chris had slow roasted Anjou squab pigeon, celeriac fondant, braised lentils with pancetta and crisp beetroot. The display was beautiful, the portions dainty and the flavour fantastic.

For the main course, I had roast breast of corn fed duck, ravioli of confit duck leg, nutmeg spinach, black cherry and cocoa nib crumble. Chris had roast rump of Spring lamb, saute of lambs' sweetbread with crushed Jersey royals, pea puree and local asparagus jus. It tasted lovely and the presentation was an art in itself.

We shared a plate of local farm cheeses, pistachio biscotti, quince paste and grapes at an extra cost of £6 before the most beautiful desserts arrived. Mine was a roasted strawberry cheesecake with rosewater cream and strawberry sorbet and Chris had warm cherry almond tart.

Happy Anniversary was written in dark chocolate across the edge of my plate, the hotel having asked us when we booked if our meal was to be a special occasion.

We retired to The Yellow Drawing Room to drink our coffee, settle the bill and absorb the last moments of splendour before returning to the real world.

By Victoria Hughes.

The Manor House Hotel, Castle Combe

  • Restaurant opens daily for lunch except Saturdays and every evening from 7.00pm to 11.00pm
  • Children welcome, high chairs and special menu available.
  • Wheel chair access through a side door from the outside, but not directly through the reception area
  • Evening three course set menu is £49.50