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Laura Wurzal discovers the delights of Estonia’s capital city

Why does tiny Estonia always do so well in the Eurovision song contest? Only when I went to Tallinn, its capital, did I realise the significance of music in the history of this brave little country.

In the Eighties, as the Soviet occupation dragged on, the ‘Singing Revolution’ began and hundreds of thousands of citizens joined together to belt out patriotic songs, expressing their desire for freedom from the USSR. Liberation came just a few years after.

Twenty years since gaining independence, the feeling of a new beginning is still in the air. Music remains a big craze, and I watched the latest teen heart-throbs Jedward getting mobbed by girls in our hotel lobby. Our base, the Nordic Forum Hotel, was perfectly placed to explore this European Capital of Culture 2011.

Tallinn has an amazing medieval old town, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, and it’s easy to imagine the spies of East and West flitting through the shadows and scurrying along cobbled alleyways in the Cold War years.

In contrast, Tallinn’s modern city buzzes with newness and Western freedom rediscovered; the city that invented Skype has boutique hotels, bars and clubs that heave late into the night.

Another attraction, although Estonia joined the EU in 2004, is low living costs. Cheap drink, food and accommodation explain why so many Brits come here for their noisy hen and stag parties.

With Tallinn barely 80km from the border of Finland, Estonia has been occupied down the centuries by Scandinavian, Russian and German neighbours – all of whom clearly influenced the architecture. A good place to see these influences is Tallinn’s old town, built between the 13th-16th centuries when the city was a thriving member of the Hanseatic trade league, and a major trading post between East and West.

Today, the tall, thick walls that encased the town and protected it from attacks remain intact, ringed by guard towers with red tiled roofs.

Walking along twisting cobblestone lanes, passing colourful gabled houses, quaint courtyards with churches and gothic spires, I often felt as though I was in a fairytale. Looking up, I expected to see dragons flying overheard!

This illusion continued when we visited Old Hansa, a medieval restaurant designed to transport diners back to the glory days of the Hanseatic League.

Barely a block away from Old Hansa is the most picturesque area, Town Hall Square (Raekoja Plats). The hub of the old town for more than 800 years, this square is surrounded by elaborate merchant houses and one of Europe’s best preserved gothic town halls.

St Catherine’s Passage, one of the most photogenic of nearby lanes, is crowded with craft shops where artists create and sell ceramics, hand-painted silk, hats, quilts and jewellery.

The old town is divided into two parts: Lower Town and Toompea Hill. Connecting these areas are two steep streets, known as Tallinn’s two “legs”, called Pikk Jalg (Long Leg Street) – home of the yellow painted, gabled Great Guild Hall – and Luhike Jalg (Short Leg Street).

A climb to the top is worth it, where viewing platforms on Kohtu Street and Patkuli give panoramic views across rooftops and chimneys.

On top of Toompea Hill sits the huge, colourful Russian Orthodox Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It was built in 1900, when Estonia was part of the old Russian empire, as a formidable symbol of Tsarist power.

There is much to see in Tallin, but the city is compact, so you don’t get tired as you explore.

We may not have such a great reputation in the Eurovision Song Content, but after a thorough exploration, I certainly returned home singing the praises of Tallinn.

Travel facts

  • Laura Wurzal stayed at the Nordic Forum Hotel (www.nordichotels.eu), where double rooms start from £72 and flew Estonian Air ex-Gatwick, with prices starting from £205 one-way (www.estonian-air.ee). Visit www.visit estonia.com for more details about the city.